Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Provincetown Blues

Maybe it's the scorching heat or the mid-summer blahs, but I'm missing Provincetown today. We visit Ptown whenever we get the chance, especially during the fall and spring to take advantage of travel deals and fewer of the crowds that plague Cape Cod in the summer.  Last year, however, we brought Cate there as a graduation present from college, and we had a full-fledged summer-in-Ptown experience, including people-watching at Bubala's, climbing Pilgrim Tower, walking the beaches, biking through the insane traffic, getting sunburned no matter how much sunscreen we slathered on ourselves, and eating pistachio-coconut cake at Clem & Ursie's.  And we can't forget the shopping.  Ptown is an amazing place for shopping.  A few of my favorites (including one in nearby Wellfleet):

The best thing about Provincetown is, well, there are too many best things.  I do love the cottages, and the overflowing gardens, and the smell of salt air in my pillow, and the friendly people, and the little South African restaurant with the stunning food.
Maybe I can choose one best thing, though.  On this last trip to Ptown, we went on a 4-hour whale watch in Cape Cod Bay, and it was spectacular.  In fact, it's a must-do.  We saw several of these magnificent creatures, including a mother and her calf swimming together.  We were lucky enough to see right whales, so-called because whalers thought they were the "right" whales to hunt due to the fact that they float after they've been killed.  They were hunted nearly to extinction, so we are lucky to have them still in Northern Atlantic waters today.  They grow to be nearly fifty feet long and to weigh up to 117 tons, yet they are immensely graceful animals.

As baleen whales (whales with baleen plates that they use to sieve their food) feed on krill and plankton, the sea gulls flock around them to share the feast.

One last thought about Provincetown, and the Cape in general: as beautiful as it is in summer, I love it in fall best, especially when the Wellfleet Oyster Festival is on in October.  The drive on historic Route 6A is blazing with the changing leaves, the sun is still warm, and, truly, how can you beat $1 Wellfleet raw oysters fresh off the dock?  Seafood nirvana.


  1. Gina, when you write, I just want to go there and experience it. I love your writing.

    The pictures were beautiful.

    I adore whales, to hear them communicate underwater is so magical.


  2. Okay, you have definitely thrown out the bait and caught my attention! Seafood nirvana, shopping, whales, sunshine...what's not to love?

    When are you going back? :)

  3. Oh, I want to go there too! :o) Good food, shopping, wildlife...I'm there! ;o) There whale photos are amazing, Gigi...*sigh*...Happy Days, my friend ((HUGS))

  4. Found your blog on dustjacket attic. I love it! That Ptown cottage photo is beautiful.

    Have a nice day!

  5. I love Ptown, I loved that trip! I loved so many things about it...one was the cottage...and my little loft bed...and reading Charlotte's web. Thank you for the post, I have nice things to think about on this crummy day!

  6. DJA: Thank you for your kind words. Writing is my deepest passion.
    Mel: Come on out east, and we'll take a trip there!
    Kellie: I agree, and those whales are among the most amazing animals I've ever seen.
    Tracy: You can join Mel and me! Let's all go shopping!
    Simply Collette: Welcome! I'm so glad you found me. Now I'm anxious to visit you, too.
    Cate: Your comment nearly made me cry. That cottage was the best, wasn't it? And what could be better than reading Charlotte's Web on a beautiful summer afternoon? Hope your day gets better!!! xoxo

  7. My husband lived on the Cape when I first met him but it has been a long time since we have put up with the traffic and crowds to go there during the summer...maybe if we had our own little cottage on a nice cove:)....now I just have to remember this post come October because that would be just a perfect weekend road trip for us to take:)

  8. Wow - what a beautiful place. Will have to put this on the must-go-places list. Leigh

  9. Beautiful photographs, I can imagine how exciting it must be to see a whale up close, it is definately on my things to do list. I get Forest of Dean blues - we go every year for a week and I love being in the middle of a forest so big that it gets properly dark at night - and the locals warn you to watch our for wild Boar on your walks. Oh, I've got that homesick feeling now!
    Kim xx

  10. These are amazing photos. And whale watching? Gorgeous!! I would love to try the South African restaurant! : )

  11. Wow. What a gorgeous place. You make me want to plan a trip ASAP!


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