Provincetown Blues

Maybe it's the scorching heat or the mid-summer blahs, but I'm missing Provincetown today. We visit Ptown whenever we get the chance, especially during the fall and spring to take advantage of travel deals and fewer of the crowds that plague Cape Cod in the summer.  Last year, however, we brought Cate there as a graduation present from college, and we had a full-fledged summer-in-Ptown experience, including people-watching at Bubala's, climbing Pilgrim Tower, walking the beaches, biking through the insane traffic, getting sunburned no matter how much sunscreen we slathered on ourselves, and eating pistachio-coconut cake at Clem & Ursie's.  And we can't forget the shopping.  Ptown is an amazing place for shopping.  A few of my favorites (including one in nearby Wellfleet):

• Wellfleet Drive-In Theatre Flea Market 
• Human Rights Campaign
• Moda Fina 
  
• Marine Specialties
• Good Scents
• Far Land Provisions (amazing groceries & lunches)
• Angel Foods (more amazing groceries & lunches--the chocolate selection alone is fabulous)

The best thing about Provincetown is, well, there are too many best things.  I do love the cottages, and the overflowing gardens, and the smell of salt air in my pillow, and the friendly people, and the little South African restaurant with the stunning food.
Maybe I can choose one best thing, though.  On this last trip to Ptown, we went on a 4-hour whale watch in Cape Cod Bay, and it was spectacular.  In fact, it's a must-do.  We saw several of these magnificent creatures, including a mother and her calf swimming together.  We were lucky enough to see right whales, so-called because whalers thought they were the "right" whales to hunt due to the fact that they float after they've been killed.  They were hunted nearly to extinction, so we are lucky to have them still in Northern Atlantic waters today.  They grow to be nearly fifty feet long and to weigh up to 117 tons, yet they are immensely graceful animals.

As baleen whales (whales with baleen plates that they use to sieve their food) feed on krill and plankton, the sea gulls flock around them to share the feast.

One last thought about Provincetown, and the Cape in general: as beautiful as it is in summer, I love it in fall best, especially when the Wellfleet Oyster Festival is on in October.  The drive on historic Route 6A is blazing with the changing leaves, the sun is still warm, and, truly, how can you beat $1 Wellfleet raw oysters fresh off the dock?  Seafood nirvana.